World Cuisines

Umu (Sunday Feast)

Samoa

The Sunday umu: Samoa's above-ground stone oven — taro, breadfruit, palusami and pork cooked on hot rocks under banana leaves while the family is at church — the week's sacred meal. Ingredients: whole pig portions or chicken, taro, breadfruit (ulu), palusami, bananas, stones, banana leaves.

What it is

The Sunday umu: Samoa's above-ground stone oven — taro, breadfruit, palusami and pork cooked on hot rocks under banana leaves while the family is at church — the week's sacred meal. Ingredients: whole pig portions or chicken, taro, breadfruit (ulu), palusami, bananas, stones, banana leaves. Recipe: 1) Heat the stones (the untitled men's work, traditionally). 2) Arrange the foods by cooking time. 3) Cover with leaves; cook 1-2 hours. 4) Serve after church (toonai). Serve: on Sundays in every village — fa'a Samoa on a platter. Flavor: smoky, rich, coconut-laced. History: the umu is Polynesia's oven; Samoa guards its Sunday ritual still. See also: Oka (Samoan Raw Fish), Palusami.

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