World Cuisines

Torta Frita and Mate

Uruguay

The rainy day rite: tortas fritas (fried dough discs, made when it rains — the tradition says the rainwater was used) with yerba mate, the bitter infusion every Uruguayan carries under one arm (mate and thermos are national body parts).

What it is

The rainy day rite: tortas fritas (fried dough discs, made when it rains — the tradition says the rainwater was used) with yerba mate, the bitter infusion every Uruguayan carries under one arm (mate and thermos are national body parts). Ingredients: tortas: flour, beef tallow or lard, warm water, salt, sugar for dusting; mate: yerba mate, hot water, the mate gourd and bombilla. Recipe: 1) Knead a simple dough; rest. 2) Roll discs; pierce the centre; fry in tallow until puffed. 3) Dust with sugar. 4) Brew mate; pass it in rounds (one bombilla, shared — the rule). Serve: on rainy afternoons and at every gathering imaginable. Flavor: crisp dough; mate bitter and social. History: mate is Guaraní heritage industrialised by gauchos; Uruguay drinks more mate per capita than Argentina or Brazil. See also: Asado (Uruguayan), Chivito.

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