World Cuisines

Fanesca

Ecuador

The Holy Week cathedral: fanesca — a thick soup of 12 grains and beans (for the apostles), salt cod, pumpkin, milk and cream, made only at Easter (Semana Santa) in the highlands — Ecuador's most symbolic dish. Ingredients: 12 grains/beans (lupini, fava, lentils, peas, corn, rice...)

What it is

The Holy Week cathedral: fanesca — a thick soup of 12 grains and beans (for the apostles), salt cod, pumpkin, milk and cream, made only at Easter (Semana Santa) in the highlands — Ecuador's most symbolic dish. Ingredients: 12 grains/beans (lupini, fava, lentils, peas, corn, rice...), bacalao (salt cod), zapallo pumpkin, cabbage, milk, cream, cheese, peanut (a whisper), fried empanaditas and plantain to serve. Recipe: 1) Cook each grain (the labour is the devotion). 2) Simmer cod in milk separately. 3) Combine grains in the pumpkin-milk base; add cod. 4) Serve with empanadas, fried plantain, avocado and egg. Serve: Good Friday week in Quito's homes and restaurants. Flavor: creamy, complex, ceremonial. History: fanesca merges indigenous harvest soups (uchucuta) with Catholic Lent — its 12 grains are edible theology. See also: Encebollado, Llapingachos.

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