Masgouf
Baghdad's river icon: a whole split carp butterflied and grilled upright around a wood fire, basted with tomato-onion marinade — eaten with pickles and samoon bread.
What it is
Baghdad's river icon: a whole split carp butterflied and grilled upright around a wood fire, basted with tomato-onion marinade — eaten with pickles and samoon bread. Ingredients: river carp (shabbout or bunni), tomatoes, onions, parsley, tamarind or lemon, curry powder (Iraqi touch), turmeric, oil, salt; amba and pickles to serve. Recipe: 1) Split the fish from the back; butterfly flat; salt. 2) Ring it around an alder-wood fire on stakes, skin to the flames. 3) Spread the tomato-onion mixture over the flesh. 4) Grill 1-2 hours until smoky and crisp at the edges. Serve: on great trays in the Abu Nawas riverside restaurants of Baghdad, with samoon and amba. Flavor: smoky, sweet, river-rich. History: masgouf is Mesopotamia's oldest living dish — Sumerian echoes with a 20th-century Baghdad restaurant canonisation. See also: Quzi, Iraqi Dolma.
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