World Cuisines

Peka

Croatia

Dalmatia's slow ceremony: veal, lamb or octopus with potatoes sealed under a bell-shaped lid and buried in embers for hours — order it a day ahead or don't order it at all. Ingredients: veal, lamb or octopus, potatoes, onions, carrots, garlic, rosemary, bay, white wine, olive oil, salt.

What it is

Dalmatia's slow ceremony: veal, lamb or octopus with potatoes sealed under a bell-shaped lid and buried in embers for hours — order it a day ahead or don't order it at all. Ingredients: veal, lamb or octopus, potatoes, onions, carrots, garlic, rosemary, bay, white wine, olive oil, salt. Recipe: 1) Season meat and potatoes; arrange in a shallow baking tray. 2) Add wine, oil and herbs. 3) Cover with the peka bell; heap embers and ash over it. 4) Cook 2+ hours, turning the contents once. Serve: lifted at the table in a cloud of steam, with bread for the juices. Flavor: roasted and braised at once, impossibly tender. History: the peka (čripnja) technique is ancient Balkan iron-age logic refined in Dalmatian stone houses; restaurants still require advance orders because the embers cannot be hurried. See also: Pašticada, Crni Rižot.

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