World Cuisines

Halloumi

Cyprus

Cyprus's squeaky treasure: a brined, semi-hard goat-and-sheep cheese that grills and fries without melting, eaten from breakfast meze to the famous watermelon pairing.

What it is

Cyprus's squeaky treasure: a brined, semi-hard goat-and-sheep cheese that grills and fries without melting, eaten from breakfast meze to the famous watermelon pairing. Ingredients: goat and sheep milk (cow's milk in some), rennet, salt, mint (traditional in the brine); to serve: grilled with lemon, or raw with watermelon in summer. Recipe (the craft): 1) Curdle the milk; press curds into moulds. 2) Poach the cheeses in their own whey ('halloumi' means cooked twice in Cypriot practice). 3) Fold with mint; brine. 4) Grill or fry slices until golden-crusted. Serve: hot from the grill with lemon and bread, in meze spreads. Flavor: salty, milky, squeaky against the teeth. History: halloumi has been made in Cyprus since at least the Byzantine centuries; it holds EU PDO status and is the island's edible ambassador. See also: Sheftalia, Kleftiko.

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