World Cuisines

Goulash (Gulyás)

Hungary

Hungary's herdsman's stew: beef braised in a paprika-onion base until dark and rich — the dish the world calls goulash, guarded fiercely at home.

What it is

Hungary's herdsman's stew: beef braised in a paprika-onion base until dark and rich — the dish the world calls goulash, guarded fiercely at home. Ingredients: beef shin, onions (many), sweet paprika (édesnemes), lard, garlic, caraway, tomatoes, green peppers, potatoes, carrots, csipetke pinched noodles. Recipe: 1) Sweat onions in lard to gold. 2) Off the heat, add paprika (never burn it); add beef and a splash of water. 3) Braise low 2 hours, adding little water at a time. 4) Add vegetables and csipetke at the end. Serve: in bowls, soupier than foreign versions (gulyás is a soup-stew), with white bread. Flavor: deep paprika sweetness, beefy, warming. History: the gulyás herdsmen of the Great Plain cooked it in cauldrons (bogrács); paprika arrived from the Americas and by the 1800s had become Hungary's soul. See also: Chicken Paprikash, Lángos.

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