World Cuisines

Ilish Curry (Shorshe Ilish)

Bangladesh

The hilsa (ilish) is Bangladesh's silver king: the national fish steamed or curried in mustard oil and mustard paste, its richness matched to the pungency.

What it is

The hilsa (ilish) is Bangladesh's silver king: the national fish steamed or curried in mustard oil and mustard paste, its richness matched to the pungency. Ingredients: hilsa steaks, mustard seeds or paste, mustard oil, green chiles, turmeric, nigella seeds, salt, (for shorshe ilish) a little water or coconut milk. Recipe: 1) Marinate hilsa with turmeric and salt. 2) Bloom nigella in mustard oil. 3) Add mustard paste thinned with water; simmer briefly. 4) Poach the fish gently in the sauce until just done. Serve: with plain white rice to soak up the mustard oil gravy. Flavor: intense, oily, mustard-hot — a fish with a thousand fine bones eaten with ceremony and patience. History: hilsa from the Padma River is a GI-tagged treasure and the fish of Bengali identity on both sides of the border; monsoon season is ilish season. See also: Kacchi Biryani, Pitha.

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