World Cuisines

Tam Mak Hoong

Laos

Green papaya pounded to fire: Laos's version of the famous salad is darker, funkier and fierier — fermented fish sauce (padaek) is its soul.

What it is

Green papaya pounded to fire: Laos's version of the famous salad is darker, funkier and fierier — fermented fish sauce (padaek) is its soul. Ingredients: green papaya, cherry tomatoes, long beans, garlic, chiles (many), lime, padaek (fermented fish sauce), sugar, crab (optional), eggplant (Thai/Lao varieties). Recipe: 1) Pound garlic and chiles in a clay mortar. 2) Add beans and tomatoes; bruise. 3) Add papaya strands; pound-and-fold with padaek, lime and sugar. 4) Adjust until sweet-sour-salty-fire balances. Serve: with sticky rice, pork rinds and raw vegetables to survive the heat. Flavor: fermented depth, serious chile, addictive crunch. History: papaya came from the Americas via trade; the pounding mortar met Lao padaek culture and created the salad that Thailand later made world-famous in a milder form. See also: Larb, Khao Piak Sen.

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