World Cuisines

Baklava

Turkey

Gaziantep's emerald gold: forty whisper-thin layers of filo, bright green Antep pistachios and clotted kaymak, cut in diamonds and glossed with syrup. Ingredients: filo or hand-rolled yufka, clarified butter, Antep pistachios, sugar, water, lemon, kaymak cream to serve.

What it is

Gaziantep's emerald gold: forty whisper-thin layers of filo, bright green Antep pistachios and clotted kaymak, cut in diamonds and glossed with syrup. Ingredients: filo or hand-rolled yufka, clarified butter, Antep pistachios, sugar, water, lemon, kaymak cream to serve. Recipe: 1) Roll or stretch pastry until translucent. 2) Layer half the sheets with butter; blanket with ground pistachios. 3) Add remaining sheets; cut deep diamonds. 4) Bake golden; pour warm syrup over hot pastry so it sings. Serve: with kaymak and strong Turkish coffee or tea. Flavor: butter, pistachio, crackle — sweetness held in check by craft. History: baklava matured in the Ottoman palace kitchens of Istanbul, but Gaziantep made it a religion: its pistachio baklava holds EU protection, and the city's masters guard their rolling pins like sceptres. See also: İmam Bayıldı, Lahmacun.

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