World Spirits

Kinmen Kaoliang

Taiwan

The sorghum fire of the fortress island: Kinmen kaoliang — a crystal baijiu-style sorghum spirit (58%) from Kinmen, the island within sight of Xiamen, made with wheat-qu solid fermentation and the water of its granite wells — Taiwan's wedding and banquet essential.

What it is

The sorghum fire of the fortress island: Kinmen kaoliang — a crystal baijiu-style sorghum spirit (58%) from Kinmen, the island within sight of Xiamen, made with wheat-qu solid fermentation and the water of its granite wells — Taiwan's wedding and banquet essential. Origins: the Kinmen distillery was founded in 1952 under the military administration ( General Hu Lien's project for the garrison economy); kaoliang funds much of Kinmen county's welfare — 'liquid gold'. Made from: sorghum, wheat qu, solid-state fermentation, distillation, ceramic-jar ageing. How it's made: 1) Steam sorghum; mix with qu. 2) Ferment in pits. 3) Distil; age in jars. Served: in tiny cups through banquet toasts (ganbei); the 58% is the standard, a 38% 'friendly' version exists. Flavor: fierce, fruity-estery, clean burn. Strength: 38-58%. Culture: a bottle of Kinmen kaoliang is Taiwan's most serious gift — diplomacy and weddings run on it. See also: Kavalan Whisky.

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