World Spirits

Gemišt and Croatian Wine

Croatia

The spritzer and the vineyards: gemišt (white wine + sparkling water) is Croatia's summer order; its wines — Istrian Malvazija, Dalmatian Plavac Mali (tribal kin of Zinfandel/Primitivo), Slavonian Graševina — pour at every konoba.

What it is

The spritzer and the vineyards: gemišt (white wine + sparkling water) is Croatia's summer order; its wines — Istrian Malvazija, Dalmatian Plavac Mali (tribal kin of Zinfandel/Primitivo), Slavonian Graševina — pour at every konoba. Origins: vine growing in Dalmatia predates Rome; Plavac Mali's parentage (Crljenak = Zinfandel) was proven by DNA in 2001, a Croatian-American wine story. Made from: the regional grapes, from island stone terraces (Dingač's steep slopes) to Slavonian plains. How it's made: 1) Grow on sun-blasted terraces. 2) Ferment dry and fresh (whites) or powerful (Plavac). 3) Serve gemišt-style in summer heat. Served: at konobas with grilled fish and peka meats. Flavor: Malvazija floral; Plavac dark and plummy; Graševina crisp. Strength: 12-14%. Culture: wine is Dalmatia's blood type; gemišt is its summer dilution of seriousness. See also: Croatian Rakija, Maraschino.

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