World Spirits

Bulgarian Wine (Mavrud)

Bulgaria

The Thracian reds: Bulgarian wine — Mavrud (the dark, tannic red of Plovdiv's plains), Melnik (the broadleaf-vine reds of the southwest pyramids, Churchill's favourite by legend), Gamza and the Danube whites — from one of the world's oldest wine lands.

What it is

The Thracian reds: Bulgarian wine — Mavrud (the dark, tannic red of Plovdiv's plains), Melnik (the broadleaf-vine reds of the southwest pyramids, Churchill's favourite by legend), Gamza and the Danube whites — from one of the world's oldest wine lands. Origins: Thracians worshipped Dionysus here 4,000 years ago; Bulgaria was a top global wine exporter in the 1970s-80s and is rebuilding with boutique quality. Made from: native grapes (Mavrud, Melnik, Gamza, Dimyat, Misket) plus internationals. How it's made: 1) Grow from the Danube to the Struma valley. 2) Ferment; age the reds in oak. 3) Serve with the rakia hour's second act. Served: at mehanas (taverns) with kebapche and banitsa. Flavor: Mavrud dark and plummy; Melnik spicy and rustic. Strength: 12.5-14%. Culture: wine is woven into Bulgarian ritual (Trifon Zarezan, the vine-pruning saint's day, soaks the vines in wine). See also: Bulgarian Rakia, Mastika.

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